Crossing America by Rental Car

Saturday 18th October we said goodbye to ouror at night when the twinkling lights in the trees and the
friends and set off for Phoenix, a journey through thelights from the cafes, restaurants and river boats add
desert with few places to break the monotony. Ona magical dimension. We had a delightful meal at a
Sunday it was hot, a record of 101, so we only stayedriverside table at sunset as the lights started to go on.
two hours at Phoenix's interesting 145-acre DesertOn Wednesday, all the way to Corpus Christi on Hwy.
Botanical Garden, which features arid land plants from181 the flat landscape was neatly tended lush farmland.
all over the world. They had lots of Saguaro Cacti,Corpus Christi has a huge oil refinery that dominates
which grow to 50 feet and can be over 250 years old.the road into town. The only thing that appealed to us
Monday we left Scottsdale and drove via Apachewas the USS Lexington, a retired World War ll aircraft
Junction and Florence to Tucson. A number of peoplecarrier. It was very interesting to look around this
had warned us there is little at Tucson and they wereenormous aircraft carrier and read of its exploits in the
right! The journey on the Tuesday from Tucson towar against Japan. We continued up the coast to
Tombstone was initially along Interstate 10, which wasRockport, which is a nice little Texas Gulf Coast resort
as arid and boring as we had come to expect, butwith a revitalised downtown that is home to a growing
Tombstone was a captivating place. We only wishedcolony of artists and craft people.
we had driven the 73 miles to it the day before andDriving on Thursday along the coastal highway was
skipped Tucson. It is a real bit of the old Wild West.unlike earlier parts of Texas with flat coastal land,
The number of original buildings in the town is amazing.sometimes neatly farmed and at other times marshy.
We did the OK Corral shoot-out visit of course, but thisAs we approached the southern tip of Galveston
is only a small part of the history of a town that onceIsland we lost count of the number of refineries and
boomed because of its silver mines. When theychemical plants that we passed. Thankfully there were
flooded everything changed, but the town still thrives,none on the island. It is over 30 miles from the southern
albeit on tourism. We headed back to the interstatepart of the island to the city and at first there were
and drove on to Lordsburg, New Mexico for the nightonly a few beach homes interspersed with long
through arid mountainous desert with occasional farmsstretches of totally deserted beaches. After settling
in lush irrigated valleys. At one point we crossed ainto a motel, we went to see a film at the Pier 21
10-mile wide dust bowl with warning signs for dustTheater called "The Great Storm" that tells the story
storms.of the hurricane that hit the city on September 8th
On Wednesday for nearly 60 miles after leaving1900, causing 6,000 deaths. After the storm the city
Lordsburg we were crossing yet more desert. At onebuilt a 17 feet high seawall and raised the land behind it.
point we crossed the Continental Divide, but apart fromThe business district on the bay side suffered least, so
the roadside sign it would not have been noticeable. Atmany of its buildings survived. An old style diesel
Las Cruces we descended into a lush farming valley.powered tram runs around the historic area on
Soon we crossed into Texas and were greeted bytramlines set in the road.
cattle as far as the eye could see and the nose couldOn Friday to avoid the long drive around Galveston
smell in stockyards by the roadside. El Paso is on theBay we took the free 20-minute ferry from Galveston
Rio Grande River. The Mexican City of Juarez acrossto Port Bolivar. The ferry weaves in and out of the
the river is said to be far nicer than El Paso, but thehuge tankers entering and leaving the Bay. We then
car wasn't insured for Mexico.drove along the coastal peninsula until we had to head
We were so keen to put the empty desert behind usinland to rejoin the interstate for the last few miles in
that we left El Paso at 6.45am on Thursday for theTexas. Entering Louisiana we left the interstate at
493 miles to Kerrville. Texas has a 75mph limit in lowLake Charles and took the quieter rural Hwy. 14 to
population areas, and that description certainly fits theLafayette. The scenery was very mixed with sugar
"Big Bend" area. There isn't a single radio station youcane and rice fields, cattle and nodding donkeys. That
can pick up in some parts. An interesting episode wasnight we went out to dinner to PreJean's, an award
finding the Interstate shut down outside El Paso for USwinning Cajun restaurant that features live Cajun music
Border Patrol inspections. We stopped after 112 milesevery night. We had an enjoyable meal accompanied
at Van Horn, thankful that we had decided not to carryby foot tapping music from a three-piece band.
on the day before and stay there instead of El Paso!Lafayette and the Parishes immediately surrounding it
The next place, Fort Stockton at 232 miles had to beare the spiritual home of Acadiana. Acadians were
an early lunch stop as there is nothing for another 107French immigrants to Nova Scotia who were banished
miles! Fort Stockton is a relatively big place. It has thein 1755. Many eventually headed to Louisiana. Finding
first supermarket and Wal-Mart since leaving El Paso!New Orleans already settled, they settled around what
Kerrville is the first town after the desert ends and it'sis today Lafayette. This is the origin of Cajun cuisine
a well-known tourist town in the Texas hill country. It isand Cajun music. On Friday we saw two fascinating
a rather charming example of small town America.films at the Jean Lafitte Cultural Center. One was
Dating back to the mid 1800's when this area wasabout the Acadian's exile from Nova Scotia and their
settled by German immigrants, it has a well preservedarrival in Louisiana. The other was about the
main street area and the whole town has lots ofAtchafalaya Swamp. We had an interesting visit to
mature trees due to its location in the GuadeloupeVermilionville, a Cajun-Creole Heritage Park and
River valley.explored Downtown Lafayette before driving out to
Friday morning we headed to Fredericksburg. It is anBreaux Bridge and St Martinville, two of the
even smaller town, but with a big Historic Main Streetwell-known Cajun towns just outside Lafayette. That
area. The town displays its German immigrant originsnight we returned to PreJean's to have a final Cajun
extensively; in fact finding anything but German food isdinner.
quite difficult! The town has plenty of the usual antiqueOn Saturday it was foggy when we set out. There is
and gift shops, and also a few beer halls! Afterno alternative to the Interstate, which for 16 miles
exploring the town we continued on Hwy. 290 tocrosses the Atchafalaya Swamp on a low bridge. In
Austin. There were immaculate farms and vineyardsthe fog the swamp looked quite eerie. We turned
along parts of the road. Texas hill country deserves itssouth to follow the Mississippi River to the outskirts of
reputation as a scenic area. It is amazingly differentNew Orleans along Plantation Row, a Louisiana Scenic
scenery from the desert only 30 or so miles to theHighway. The rural parts are quite scenic, but there are
west.also lots of petrochemical plants along the riverbank.
On Saturday we took a Duck Tour of Austin on aBecause of a 20-feet high flood protection levy you
converted 1960's ex-British Army Alvis Rolls Roycecannot see the river from the road. We had an
powered amphibious troop carrier. After touringexcellent guided tour of the beautiful Oak Alley
Austin's downtown and state capitol areas they drovePlantation, which was built in 1839.
us into the lake to give us a view from the water!Then it was back on the Interstate to bypass New
After exploring the downtown area on foot, particularlyOrleans, which we had visited earlier in the year.
the famous 6th street music district, with rain due onLeaving New Orleans the Interstate crosses Lake
Sunday, we decided to explore two more small towns.Pontchartrain. We said good bye to Louisiana and
San Marcos has a real Universal Lot styleturned onto Hwy. 90, a Mississippi Scenic Highway.
old-fashioned town square. Gruene is again German inAfter reaching the Gulf Coast at Pass Christian the
origin dating back to the 1840's. All the buildings are onroad runs right alongside the beach to Biloxi.
the National Register of Historic Places. Many are nowSunday we had a lazy day in Biloxi and explored one
antique and gift shops and others are restaurants. Itof the local casinos. It was rather small compared to
was absolutely packed with weekend visitors. SomeLas Vegas. Leaving Biloxi on Monday we meandered
were listening to a live band in Gruene Hall, reputed toalong the Gulf Coast, through Mobile, Alabama and
be the oldest dance hall and saloon in Texas.crossed the state line into Florida. We paused to
On Sunday we headed to Luckenbach. It is a quaintexplore Historic Downtown Pensacola then we
General Store, US Post Office and Dance Hall datingcrossed the causeway to Pensacola Beach and
back to 1871. It was made famous by two of itscontinued meandering along the coast to Seaside, the
regulars, Willie Nelson and Waylon Jennings who wroteforerunner of developments like Disney's Celebration. It
a hit record titled "Luckenbach Texas". It is a reallyis certainly attractively done and is located on a
quirky place, well worth the visit. Then we headed tobeautiful powdery soft pure white sandy beach. The
Boerne, another historic town of German origin. Itrental rates for the properties would make vacation
started raining so hard that we only stopped to fill uphomeowners in Orlando weep with jealousy. Unwilling
the car and pressed on to San Antonio.to pay their rates we got a beautiful room in a Quality
Monday was ideal for sightseeing in San Antonio,Inn right on Panama City Beach for only $39.
sunny and in the low 70's. At the IMAX theatre weTuesday morning we saw the Sunrise over the Gulf
saw "Alamo - the Price of Freedom". The film tunedof Mexico from our balcony on our last day on the
us in to the story of the famous siege in 1836 readyroad. We rejoined our outbound route at Appalachicola
for seeing The Alamo itself, or the parts of it that stilland passed once again through Carrabelle. This time
survive. Then we visited La Villita which is the oldestwe spotted the "World's smallest police station" that
surviving neighbourhood dating from the 1750's that iswe had missed on our outward journey. It is literally a
now full of craftshops, galleries and restaurants. Wephone box! We ran into torrential tropical rain between
also took a disappointing trolley tour that spent most ofPerry and Crystal River. What a way to welcome us
its time out of town. However the Riverwalk boat rideback after nearly seven weeks, but after Crystal
we took was excellent. The river is one level belowRiver it was sunshine all the way home. With some
the streets, and on either side are pretty flower linedadditional stops and exploring, the trip ended up being a
walkways and many riverside cafes and restaurants.total of 7,827 miles. Did we enjoy it? Yes, immensely.
I can't think of any riverside we have ever been toBeing on the road became a way of life after a while
that is so picturesque, whether you see it by daylightand now the only question is "where next?